NH3, NO2, NO3....what?
Most people who keep fish are familiar with the nitrogen cycle as it pertains to aquaria. In freshwater and brackish set-ups, ammonia (NH3) is converted into nitrites (NO2-) which is then converted nitrates (NO3-). The ammonia originates from fish waste, uneaten food and rotting plant matter. The conversion takes place due to denitrifying bacteria....the stuff you want in your filter and substrate. The process is a little different in marine tanks, but that's not relevent to freshwater shrimp.
Generally speaking, the order of how harmful these substances are to fish is as follows: ammonia (most) ----> nitrites ----> nitrates (least). However, even nitrates are harmful in large enough quantities and should be kept to under 20ppm whenever possible.
An aquarium is considered 'mature', or safe for fish, when both ammonia and nitrites have been reduced to zero ppm, and nitrates are rising. The process is known as 'cycling'.
Despite the aquarium then being safe for fish, water changes need to be undertaken regularly to keep nitrates within safe levels.
Cycling your shrimp tank is just as important as it is for fish. Shrimp are as susceptible, if not more so, to harmful substances from the nitrogen cycle.
Testing the waters
Water parameters should be tested regularly as it's possible to experience sudden 'spikes' in any of the substances produced during the nitrogen cycle. In addition, pH and hardness (both KH and GH) should also be tested.
While less convenient than strip tests, liquid tests are far more accurate and I'd definitely recommend them.
pH
Technically-speaking, pH is a measure of hydrogen (H+) atoms, but is more commonly referred to as relative acidity or alkalinity. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, representing acidic and alkaline respectively. Neutral is considered to be pH 7.
The majority of fish and invertebrates require a pH somewhere in the range of pH 5-9, and many species tolerate a reasonable range of pH.
It is, however, essential to keep pH stable - a fluctuating pH is far more harmful than a pH slightly outside the recommended range for that species.
Hardness
Hardness is measured on two scales: general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH), and both relate to the amount of dissolved minerals in the water.
KH and pH are related in so much as carbonate ions buffer the water. Therefore pH is more stable with a higher KH.
Copper
Copper is extremely harmful to invertebrates. It should be avoided at all costs. While the majority of fish can tolerate copper very well, shrimp and other invertebrates cannot, and it is for this reason fish medications containing copper should be kept well clear of the shrimp aquarium.
In community tanks, where the treatment of fish with copper-containing treatments may be required, it is very important to realise the harm copper can cause any invertebrate inhabitants and therefore remove any fish needing treatment to a quaratine tank.
However, it is also a very important consideration in invertebrate-specific tanks. For example, any filter media that has previously been in contact with copper treatments should be avoided. It is therefore a better idea to use fresh equipment when setting up a shrimp-containing tank.
Another consideration with regards to copper is water source. Many old houses have copper pipes that can leach enough of the metal (even in small quantities) to cause death in invertebrates. Indeed, some species are marginally less tolerant to copper than others - while copper is lethal to all invertebrates, it is possible to successfully use tap water in one shrimp tank and find the same tap water completely kills off another shrimp tank. It is possible to buy copper test kits for your water, but if in any doubt avoid using tap water.
Alternatives to tap water are RO water (from RO units or easily purchased at an lfs), distilled water, deionised water or rainwater. My personal preference is to use RO water (with minerals added back) in all shrimp tanks - this way I can be sure absolutely all potentially harmful substances have been removed from the water.
Most people who keep fish are familiar with the nitrogen cycle as it pertains to aquaria. In freshwater and brackish set-ups, ammonia (NH3) is converted into nitrites (NO2-) which is then converted nitrates (NO3-). The ammonia originates from fish waste, uneaten food and rotting plant matter. The conversion takes place due to denitrifying bacteria....the stuff you want in your filter and substrate. The process is a little different in marine tanks, but that's not relevent to freshwater shrimp.
Generally speaking, the order of how harmful these substances are to fish is as follows: ammonia (most) ----> nitrites ----> nitrates (least). However, even nitrates are harmful in large enough quantities and should be kept to under 20ppm whenever possible.
An aquarium is considered 'mature', or safe for fish, when both ammonia and nitrites have been reduced to zero ppm, and nitrates are rising. The process is known as 'cycling'.
Despite the aquarium then being safe for fish, water changes need to be undertaken regularly to keep nitrates within safe levels.
Cycling your shrimp tank is just as important as it is for fish. Shrimp are as susceptible, if not more so, to harmful substances from the nitrogen cycle.
Testing the waters
Water parameters should be tested regularly as it's possible to experience sudden 'spikes' in any of the substances produced during the nitrogen cycle. In addition, pH and hardness (both KH and GH) should also be tested.
While less convenient than strip tests, liquid tests are far more accurate and I'd definitely recommend them.
pH
Technically-speaking, pH is a measure of hydrogen (H+) atoms, but is more commonly referred to as relative acidity or alkalinity. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, representing acidic and alkaline respectively. Neutral is considered to be pH 7.
The majority of fish and invertebrates require a pH somewhere in the range of pH 5-9, and many species tolerate a reasonable range of pH.
It is, however, essential to keep pH stable - a fluctuating pH is far more harmful than a pH slightly outside the recommended range for that species.
Hardness
Hardness is measured on two scales: general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH), and both relate to the amount of dissolved minerals in the water.
KH and pH are related in so much as carbonate ions buffer the water. Therefore pH is more stable with a higher KH.
Copper
Copper is extremely harmful to invertebrates. It should be avoided at all costs. While the majority of fish can tolerate copper very well, shrimp and other invertebrates cannot, and it is for this reason fish medications containing copper should be kept well clear of the shrimp aquarium.
In community tanks, where the treatment of fish with copper-containing treatments may be required, it is very important to realise the harm copper can cause any invertebrate inhabitants and therefore remove any fish needing treatment to a quaratine tank.
However, it is also a very important consideration in invertebrate-specific tanks. For example, any filter media that has previously been in contact with copper treatments should be avoided. It is therefore a better idea to use fresh equipment when setting up a shrimp-containing tank.
Another consideration with regards to copper is water source. Many old houses have copper pipes that can leach enough of the metal (even in small quantities) to cause death in invertebrates. Indeed, some species are marginally less tolerant to copper than others - while copper is lethal to all invertebrates, it is possible to successfully use tap water in one shrimp tank and find the same tap water completely kills off another shrimp tank. It is possible to buy copper test kits for your water, but if in any doubt avoid using tap water.
Alternatives to tap water are RO water (from RO units or easily purchased at an lfs), distilled water, deionised water or rainwater. My personal preference is to use RO water (with minerals added back) in all shrimp tanks - this way I can be sure absolutely all potentially harmful substances have been removed from the water.
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